2 Games Your Weimaraner Will Love: Catch-Me-If-You-Can & Bobbing-For-Treats

Catch-Me-If-You-Can

One of the most popular games Weimaraners play with each other is the game of catch-me. They delight in being either the chaser or the chasee. Most dogs are more comfortable in the role of chasee when playing with people. Some trainers caution against play-chasing your dog for fear the dog will learn she can evade you. But most dogs already know you are as slow as a slug.

Before playing this game, you should teach your Weimaraner to come when called and you should use distinctive words to signal the beginning and end of the catch-me game. Begin the game with “I’m gonna get you!” and stalk your dog, pouncing at him. Give chase as best you can, but if he leaves you in the dust, either crouch down and wait for him to do a fly-by (when you can pounce at him once again) or turn around and run full blast the opposite way - a sure-fire way to get him headed back in your direction.

Some dogs like to see how close they can pass without hitting you. If you have one of these, stand perfectly still so you don’t run into the dog’s path. A high-speed collision with a dog is very dangerous for both of you. At the end of the game, give a game-over word such as “finished” and call the dog to you using his regular recall command. Give him a treat and take a break.

Bobbing-For-Treats

This game will give your Weimaraner the ability to pick up floating or sunken objects from water, plus it’s fun watch with other dogs that join the dog-party! It is basically the canine version of bobbing for apples. Since no self-respecting dog is going to get his muzzle wet for an apple, all you need to do is substitute dog biscuits, hot dog slices or other treats. Experiment to find some that float on top, some that float just below the surface and some that sink.

If you’re having a summer pool party, you can use a child’s wading pool and let each dog splash around after the treats. For more formal affairs you can use a large bowl or pot. There’s a reason you don’t just fill up your bathtub, though: One sight of it filled with water and all your doggy guests will head for the exit, sure you have a dreaded bath planned!

Fill your pool or bowl with lukewarm water. If you’re using a bowl or pot, change the water between contestants; if you’re using a pool just empty it after the entire contest. Let each dog
have a practice bob until he gets one treat. Then start the clock and see how many he can grab in two minutes. Can anyone get them all?

A variation on the theme for ball-crazy Weimaraners is to fill a kiddie pool with tennis balls. See how many balls each dog can pick up and give to his person in one minute. The person is allowed to get in the pool and encourage the dog in any way, and she can take each ball from the dog as soon as the ball is totally out of the water. The person can even help by picking up balls herself - of course, using only her teeth.

There Is An Art To Bottle-Feeding A Weimaraner Puppy By Hand

Weimaraner puppies can get colicky like babies. Make certain never to allow a puppy to ingest air when either tube or bottle feeding. It is easy to avoid ingestion of air when bottle feeding by always turning the bottle, nipple end down, before offering it the puppy. All the air in the bottle rises to the solid end. You are able to tell if the puppy is nursing freely by watching the rise of bubbles in the bottle. The bubble flow should be rather rapid, small and uniform in size, rising in even response to the puppy’s nursing. If the bubbles are large the puppy may also be ingesting air, in which case check the nipple cap.

Many hungry Weimaraner puppies suck so hard and steadily that they do not allow passage of air back into the bottle, thereby creating a vacuum. The vacuum collapses the nipple, making it harder and frustrating for a puppy to nurse. Occasionally remove the bottle from the puppy’s mouth to allow a return passage of air back into the bottle, either through the nipple release when turning the bottle upright, or by momentarily loosening the cap. Never abruptly pull the bottle from a puppy’s mouth. Placing a finger in the comer of the puppy’s lip breaks the nursing vacuum, making removal easy. Remember to replace the cap securely before giving the bottle back to the puppy.

Always check the nipple’s flow, making sure a puppy’s suckling is rewarded by enough, yet not too much milk, before initiating feeding. Pinch the lower portion of the nipple, expressing a small amount of milk to check the flow. A puppy should be able to actively suckle without choking. If the rising bubbles are not uniform and are large, the cap is not secured tightly enough. The nipple’s holes may also be too large, in which case the puppy draws milk too quickly and chokes. If the cap is set correctly then changing to a nipple with fewer holes becomes necessary. Nursing should always be a rewarding experience for the puppy. When flow is restricted so the puppy is incapable of obtaining milk quickly enough, the nursing experience becomes frustrating. The puppy is then ready to graduate to a nipple of increased flowing capacity such as one with multiple holes or cross-top.

Weimaraner puppies do not take to a bottle as a duckling takes to water. No matter how hungry, some puppies instinctively resist anything unnatural such as a manufactured nipple. There is an art to starting the resistant puppy on bottle feeding. If the dam is available, rub the bottle and nipple and a towel over her mammaries. Drape this towel across your stomach and lap. Hold the puppy on your lap against your abdomen. Although the puppy’s ears are sealed, it can feel the rhythm of your breathing and respond to your touch.

Express a small amount of formula from the bottle and wipe it over the nipple. As you introduce the bottle’s nipple to the puppy’s mouth, move your legs slightly, jiggling your lap. With tiny motions also jiggle the bottle up and down in the puppy’s mouth. These movements re-create the dam’s breathing and puppy’s nursing position on the dam, causing the puppy to instinctively and reflexively latch onto the nipple. Acquiring dexterity with the bottle is always hardest with the first Weimaraner puppy. All you need is the patience over the next few weeks!

There Are Some Very Good Reasons Why Your Weimaraner Lays On His Back

Once Weimaraners are sufficiently secure to lie on their backs - and in today’s pet-loving families, it usually doesn’t take very long - they find all kinds of good reasons to do it. In hot weather, for example, dogs often lie on their backs as a form of climate control. They curl up to keep warm and stretch out to cool off. dogs have less hair and more nerve endings on their bellies than on their backs, so exposing their bellies to the air probably feels very good.

Getting the sun is another reason Weimaraners lie on their backs. Apart from their noses, the belly is the only place that isn’t covered with thick fur. dogs don’t think about sunburn, and the sensation of direct sunlight is pleasant. It’s almost like heaven to a dog.

Many dogs lie on their backs simply because they know it gets them noticed. When they have reason to believe that a belly rub is on the way, or they hope to invite one, they’ll roll over, splay their legs apart, and put their bellies in the most “petable” position. When your dog rolls over on his back in front of you, he’s usually asking for your love and attention. If he gets a belly rub by doing it, you can bet he’s going to be smart enough to do it again soon.

Now that you understand your dog’s reason behind laying on his back, take the hint! A dog who’s lying on his back should look happy and relaxed. If his sides are heaving and his tongue’s hanging out, he’s probably too hot for comfort and is trying to catch a breeze. It’s not the best form of air-conditioning, however. Most dogs prefer to lie belly-down on a cool surface when they’re hot. One way to help them get more comfortable is to hose down a shady area in the yard where they can lie down and cool off. Indoors, encourage your dog to make himself at home in the kitchen, bathroom, or another area that has tile or wood floors, which are much cooler than carpet.

Don’t forget sunscreen! Weimaraners who spend a lot of time lounging on their backs in the sun sometimes get sunburned. Veterinarians recommend applying a sunscreen with an SPF of 15 or higher. It’s fine to use human sunscreens as long as they don’t contain zinc oxide or PABA, which can be harmful should dogs lick them off. If your dog is already sunburned, you can apply an over-the-counter anesthetic spray, such as Solarcaine or Lanacane. Anesthetic ointments are helpful, too. It’s worth taking care of the irritation because, otherwise, dogs will scratch the area, which may get infected.

But overall, when your Weimaraner is on his back and is obviously looking for a rub, then give him what he wants. Belly rubs are one of the best opportunities people get to bond with pets. dogs don’t initiate many of their interactions with their owners. Here’s one situation where your dog actually gets to ask for what he wants and receive it from you. Rubbing your dog’s belly does more than make him feel great. It’s also an effective way to remind him of your parental authority. Because lying on their backs is such a submissive position, every time you give your dog a belly rub, you reinforce your position as the head of the house in the gentlest, most effective way possible.

The Whelping Box: Are You Prepared For Your Weimaraner’s Pregnancy?

The whelping box is the largest and most obvious piece of equipment that you need to have for your pregnant Weimaraner. No absolute dimensions can be given as a generalization because of breed and matron size variations. Manufactured whelping boxes constructed of sturdy plastic may be purchased. One can also be homemade with a few basic carpentry skills, exterior plywood, 8 right angles, 16 nuts and bolts and railing material.

The whelping box must be sturdy, allowing the dam to go in and out with ease. It should be square, as four equal sides allow the dam to comfortably position herself anywhere in the box while keeping the litter in front of her. The box should allow her to lie fully extended, from the crown of her head to just past her rump, with her legs comfortably extended.

Bigger is not better when it comes to the size of your box: the box should not be so enormous that the newborn whelps become disoriented, or “lost” from their dam. The whelping box floor must be level with adequate support throughout. It must not rock or in any manner feel insecure as the mother moves around. One of the four sides should be constructed low enough for her to walk over without scraping her distended abdomen or forcing her to hop in. Constructing this side with opposing end brackets allows the addition of a small board, or a hinged board may be used instead. This effectively raises the side, confining the puppies once they become mobile. The other three sides are permanently constructed slightly higher.

Measure the distance from the lowest point of your Weimaraner’s abdomen to the floor. The shortest side should be no higher than this point. Next, measure the distance from your dog’s point of shoulder to the floor while your matron reclines. Her position should be one with her forelegs outstretched, hind legs tucked to one side. You may also measure from her spinal column to the box floor as she fully reclines on her side. This is the point where a railing should be installed around the entire inner circumference of the box.

Railings may be removable or stationary according to the Weimaraner breeder’s preference. Depending upon the breed, railings may vary in size from a three-quarter-inch dowel for Toys, to a two-by-four or to a two by-six-inch board for large and heavy breeds, such as the Newfoundland or St. Bernard. A three or four-inch railing is usually sufficient for medium and big dogs such as Dalmatians and Alaskan Malamutes. While board railings are secured to the box’s side by brackets and bolts, dowel safety railings are mounted through holes drilled in all opposite sides, then secured exterior to the box by pegs or bolts. Safety is best effected when the railing’s depth on the whelping box’s side is equal in distance to the breadth of a month-old puppy.

The whelping box should be ready for occupancy about two weeks prior to the litter’s due date. Acclimate your matron to the whelping box as her “personal territory” prior to whelping. Make her bed in the box with old clean towels, a blanket or sheet and newspapers that she may shred. Let her become accustomed to getting in and out. If necessary, feed her in the box if she refuses to sleep or rest there.

The Truth About Weimaraner Dog Growling

Most Weimaraner owners do not know about the growling reflex which occurs in many dogs when their ear canals are massaged. When this apparently unconditioned response occurs, the dog may be punished, stimulating defensive reflexes to fight, flee or freeze. Also, when many dogs display submissive growling and/or fang baring, (the submissive “smile”), naive owners apply harsh punishment or back away from the dog.

In either event, serious biting problems can result because the threatened dog displays submissive behavior, but achieves no relief from the owner’s threats or punishment so it then actively defends itself; or the retreating owner becomes fearful of the dog, which puts the dog in control.

Growling is one of the least studied kinds of canine behavior. Unfortunately, growling is widely regarded as something an owner should never tolerate, lest the dog become dominant in the relationship. In fact, many owners are advised to apply dominance handling techniques as a counter measure with Weimaraner puppies and adults.

The Social Implications Of Neutering & Proper Weimaraner Training

The Humane Society of the United States estimates that there are eighty to one hundred million dogs and cats in the country. Two to three thousand more are born every hour of every day. Last year alone the nation’s shelters had to euthanize thirteen and one half million dogs and cats.

The pet population in this country is obviously out of control. It is the responsibility of all Weimaraner owners to control the reproductive potential of their dog, whether it is a male or female. Spaying or neutering your dog is imperative unless you have serious breeding plans. If you do, please consider them carefully. Litters are hard work - the puppies demand time and patience. They must be socialized, trained, and placed in proper homes. It is serious business.

By no means breed your Weimaraner because you feel it would be good for it, or because you want your children to see the miracle of birth. When you train your dog, you are helping to stem the pet population explosion. Weimaraners that are obedience trained have a healthy rapport with their owners. These dogs generally come when called, which is one way of preventing unwanted backyard breedings.

How To Register Your New Weimaraner Puppy With The American Kennel Club

When buying a new Weimaraner puppy from a breeder, people must be aware that their pet is neither already registered with nor individually recognized until the application has been received and recorded. They must clearly understand that they are responsible for their pet’s registration, and should the application be lost, that replacement may not always be possible.

Some new owners are undecided about a name when they acquire their puppy’s registration application. Many experienced breeders keep a list of names appropriate for their breed. Other breeders follow a litter format, where each puppy is named, for example, according to geographical locations or the alphabet. An “A” litter might carry names such as “Aaron” or “Amy,” a B litter, “Bravo” and “Belle.” A few breeders select names, registering the animals first, then later transferring ownership. Some breeders, however, are happy to allow owners the selection, when preceded by their kennel name. Prefacing a dog’s name with a kennel name designates where the puppy was born and by whom it was bred. If the new owner also has a kennel name, it is placed afterward, signifying ownership.

The American Kennel Club limits a name to 28 spaces. These spaces may be used by any reasonable combination of letters. Applications are given only one name choice. Often people have a favorite but common name that they wish to use. These people need to be told that “King” or “Queenie” have most likely already been used by numerous dog owners. If they insist on registering their pet with the common name, then the AKC has the right to suffix the name with a number.

Permanently registering a dog’s name with the AKC is a serious business. New owners must understand that the naming process must not be treated as a joke. The AKC will not tolerate applications of names that are irreverent or in bad taste. There are a number of Weimaraner dogs that have been registered with one name alone. When a single name is selected, it should be unique.

Once the application for individual registration has been completely and correctly filled out, and signed in the appropriate places, it should be immediately submitted with a check or money order made payable to the Kennel Club in the proper amount. Cash should never be sent through the mail, nor are stamps acceptable. puppy buyers will receive their dog’s permanent registered name and number from the Kennel Club usually within three to eight weeks. This will, in the case of the American Kennel Club, be a white slip with a royal purple border if the registration is not limited. If limited registration is designated by the breeder, the individual certificate will have an orange border. Offspring of Weimaraner dog’s with limited registration may NOT be registered.